Low fun day – Media Agua to Mendoza (118k/22,717k, 900ft)

(October 11 – written by Dave)

We had low expectations for our Ruta 40 ride today.  It pretty much met those expectations.  The wind was not too bad but the road was not much fun to ride.  It was 2 lanes each way for the first 15k – giving the cars and trucks an easy way to pass us safely.  After that it turned to 1 lane each way and passing became a test of driver patience.  Our mirrors got a good workout as did our nerves.  We bailed off onto the dirt shoulder a few times.

The scenery was pretty boring as well – mostly scrub desert in all directions.  Just as well really, as we needed to focus on the road and traffic.  It probably sounds worse than it actually was.  We never really felt unsafe; it was just low on the fun scale.  I really hate to sound like a whinger but it was just one of those days that you have to get through.

Road sign - and a view of the day

Ruta 40, no shoulder, not much scenery, but a nice sign

I am better at riding behind, spotting cars and calling them out.  So, that’s where I spent most of the day.  Nancy got to sit on the front and break the wind for us.  It is harder physically riding on the front but you don’t have to concentrate so much and it’s easier on your nerves.  Today was definitely a day of “teamwork makes the dream work”.

Roadside wine seller

Roadside wine seller – I don’t think they sell the bottles

Roadside shrine

Disfrutes shrine – lot of water in case she’s thirsty

We had lunch in the town Jocoli.  It was 65k into the day and the first place we could stop for food or drink all day.  No nice bakeries like we had yesterday.  Lunch was a funky “milanesa” sandwich.  Milanesa is some form of meat, flattened to about a quarter inch, breaded and deep fried (a bit like a chicken-fried steak, for those who know what that is).  It sounds weird but in keeping with the theme that anything fried is good, it’s pretty tasty.  The only issue was that we should have shared one as it was large and came with an egg and salad on top.  Yumm.

Lunch - Dave

Lunch stop – nice to get off the road


It tasted better than it looks

We expected traffic to pick up as we neared Mendoza but it was not too bad the last 40k to town.  It wasn’t until we only had 10k to go that we got the second lane back going our way but traffic was light and polite.  At about 8k to go, we even got our own private bike lane.  Getting on and off it was a little choppy at the intersections but it felt safer than the road so we used it.  Getting to our AirB&B was pretty easy as traffic in the city not too bad either.  We were not sure what to expect in Argentina’s second largest city.

We stop at a lot of YPF stations

We stopped at a servo for a break and to check the map once we got into town.  YPF is the main Argentina gas brand.

Mendoza bike path

Our bike path – nice to not be out there with the trucks

Our B&B

After clean-up, in front of our AirB&B

Our apartment is nice, not as well kitted out as the Salta apartment but good enough.  There is a Carrefour grocery store very close so we went shopping to stock up for the next 6 days – we are taking a mini-break here.  The store was typical Argentina – that is an entire row of mate and heaps of dulce de leche.  On the dulce de leche row, on the top shelf, they had a sign for peanut butter.  I was quite excited to find that there was a solitary jar of peanut butter – yes, that’s right, one jar.  I got out the camera, snapped a photo, and the quickly put the jar in our basket before another touring cyclist spotted it.

Heaps of Mate

Mate everywhere

The jar of peanut butter

The one jar of peanut butter in Argentina and it’s MINE, MINE, MINE

The first thing on the agenda tomorrow is to get our bikes over to a shop.  We need new chains, a good, proper clean and most important, new bottom-brackets.  The later have been problematic since Mexico.  We got Nancy’s replaced in Cusco but it is still not right.  The longer break here should give the shop plenty of time to get things sorted for our final push to the bottom.  We are also keeping our eyes open for new tires – we are probably ok but it would be great if we could get a couple new Schwalbe tires for the back of our bikes.  If not, we’ll just put on our last set of spares.

We’ll report updates from Mendoza as we make progress on Nancy’s to-do list here.  I’m sure that a there’ll be a few glasses of malbec.


12 thoughts on “Low fun day – Media Agua to Mendoza (118k/22,717k, 900ft)

  1. It is hard to believe you/we started out a year ago last May. You guys look fit and happy.

    Speaking of Mulbec, I was pressing it last night for a guy at work who has his own winery. Amazing color and taste, considering that it had just come out of the fermenting tanks this looks like a good year for the grapes from the gorge. When you get back to Oregon we can sample some of his wines…

  2. Congratulations on getting the ONE jar of peanut butter — in the second largest city no less! Are those plastic bottles refilled with wine? Sitting in bright sun I guess the intent is not to have them age much. Hope you find some roads with a decent shoulder soon. Road from today looks scary.

  3. Peanut butter is gold! Please let us know what you think of Mendoza and its environs. We are considering touring the area, and would like intel. Thanks.

  4. SOOO funny about the peanut butter, I feel your joy! I have been cheered by the mention of a few Carrefour supermarkets in Argentina, love them. Looking forward to the low down on Mendoza as we are sure to stay on our tour next year.

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