Written by Dave
Day 53 – July 20 – 62 Miles, 2,300 feet climbing (Cumberland to Hayward KOA)
Today was a very interesting day of riding. This morning we rode for mile after mile of what appeared to be classic Wisconsin Dairy farms. Many of them had a silo (or two) and a barn. They seemed like relatively small properties with what to me looked more like beef cows than dairy cows. I’m not a cow guy so take that with a grain of salt. I took lots of photos trying to get the classic look. I’m not sure I ever got what I was looking for.
After about 14 miles, we stopped for drinks in the small berg of Haugen, right where Wisconsin’s Ice Age hiking trail crosses the Adventure Cycling route. The Ice Age Trail is a 1,200 mile walking trail that sort of loops all over Wisconsin. The village grocery in Haugen has a log book that they ask both hikers and cross country rides to sign. Naturally the Chris Crossing team was happy to add our names to the honour roll.
Not long after Haugen we came across a few signs warning us that we might find Amish horse drawn buggies on the road. Almost on cue, we came across a servo where some Amish women had set-up up a baked goods stand. Of course we stopped and bought some cookies – what self respecting cycle tourist rides past an Amish bake sale without stopping?
A while after the Amish stop we turned north, left the dairy farming area and entered an area full of heaps of lakes. Most of the lakes were lined with cabins and there were quite a few small resorts. The road here was twisty and narrow but for the middle of summer, there was surprisingly little traffic. My theory is that Saturday is the last day before Sunday when everyone has to head home, or cabins are rotated to the next set of guests, so everyone sleeps in and enjoys their last full day at the lake. Of course I have no idea but regardless of the reason why, we enjoyed checking out the lakes and not having to worry much about cars too much.
Everyone was flagging as we neared the end of the lakes area but I convinced them that we could ride just a little bit further up the road to a servo where we could take a break. The servo ended being a little further than I thought but there was really nothing other than off the road resorts and one broken down looking bar (that was closed). The BP we stopped at had no tables and was not overly exciting but we needed to eat. Our summer sausage and Wisconsin cheddar sandwiches made up for a lack of offerings at the BP.
It was only 10 miles from the BP to Hayward. About halfway there we came across a sign saying bakery open today. It took some effort but I reminded the others of the comment about no self respecting touring cyclist riding past a bakery and they relented. The road in to the farmhouse bakery was gravel and a little steep but it was worth it – we picked sourdough jalapeno cheese bread for dinner and chocolate banana bread for snacks tomorrow.
We stopped in Hayward for an iced coffee and groceries for dinner tonight. It’s a cute looking town with what appeared to be way more than the listed population of 2,500 folks out and about. We didn’t know it at the time but the Hayward crowds sort of foreshadowed our campground home for the night.
I could simply write that we are staying at the Hayward KOA tonight and leave it at that. It would be easier as well as I don’t think I am a good enough writer to be able to capture the hoards of people who have descended on the 250 site camping and summer fun hotspot that the Hayward KOA is. The campground has a pool, a water slide, cornhole boards, horseshoe pits, tether ball courts, 3 play grounds, 2 game rooms, 100s of pedal around camp 4 person bike carts, a beach volleyball court and way, way more. Other than our site, which will house only three people, most sites have what seems like tens of adults and just as many children. Our little camp tents are could be set-up inside just about every other tent in the park.
The general noise level in the park this afternoon is at times deafening. I’m 100% sure that things will quiet down tonight, 100% (I keep saying so as well to convince myself and the others). I do not however, know what time the pool will close or what time any of the other venues of fun will quiet down either. We are all hoping that not every one of the 250 sites will start a campfire tonight. I’m not optimistic as many sites have obviously purchased bundles of wood, just in case it gets cold.
Ah yes, summer weekend holidays in Wisconsin. I asked the staff at check-in if it’s like this all the time. They made the claim that week days, the place is ghost town. I’m not sure I believe them but honestly, there is no way I’ll convince team Chris Crossing to come back, much less stay until mid-week.
Tomorrow we’re off for Glidden. It’s Sunday night plus we have a room booked at the Chippewa Inn. We could have stayed in a city park there but Chris was in charge of booking that night. I think he might have known that we’d need a break after our Saturday night in the Hayward KOA.
Leave Without Pay 
there’s a kitchen area right next to our camp site. They have sinks, stove tops, tables and a cover. Dave cooked us dinner and before I could start dishes a group of women showed up to do dishes. There are 3 sinks so I was able to accomplish my task but conversation with Dave and Nancy was difficult. The ladies left and I finished my dishes (with Nancy’s help). The three of us sat down to talk when another large group showed up to cook. With this group the noise level amped up to the point where it was difficult to talk with each other across the table. From the sounds flowing into my tent, the rain hasn’t dampened the campers festivities and we will all need a nap when we arrive at tomorrow’s destination. As Dave told me, it’s all part of the experience…
(like Pete & Inge i can finally type comments in the blog!)
It sounds like you are camped in an amusement park. I feel your pain from RAGBRAI day 0 tent city where a light/music parade just went by my tent at 10pm.
I too have vowed not to pass an Amish concession stand for all of RAGBRAI without partaking and donating. Those cinnamon rolls could power a few days of hard riding.
An amusement park is exactly what I would call it!
You may have double up on morning coffee to make up for the late night shenanigans. A little disappointed that after all that write up about cows, not a single cow picture! If you look closely Dave the milk cows will have udders. If you are still confused ask the farmer if the brown cows make chocolate milk. Highly recommend the Wisconsin fresh cheese curds if you can find them. The good ones will squeak when you chew them.
the jalapeño cheese bread sounded delicious.
Thanks Andy, very informative! We haven’t seen cows close to the road for udder inspection, just off in the distance. And based on the sheep story you told us, are there some cow types that keep their calves and still give farmers milk?
I don’t know but understand that calves generally require a much greater supply of milk during their early months of life. A milk supplement can be substituted but that would be an additional cost to the milk producer and grains/forage may not easily be digested due to their rumen not being fully developed. Far outside my knowledge base to say.