Written by Dave

Day 35 – July 2 – 71 Miles, 1,534 feet climbing (Lusk to Edgemont)

Today was a hard day in the saddle. We were up early with hopes of leaving before the forecasted 7AM thunderstorms developed in Lusk. The weather looked clearer to the north, the direction we were travelling. We managed to break camp at 6:30, 30 minutes before schedule. Skies were grey but there was no rain. Tents were packed dry.

For the first 20 miles we could see light showers sort of off ahead of us but it looked like they were dissipating or perhaps moving off to our right pretty quickly. The wind forecast was spot on, unfortunately a nor-wester as we were heading mostly due north. We made a few stops in the opening 20 miles for photos and comfort breaks, but mostly it was heads down beating against the growing breeze.

At almost exactly 8AM and 20 miles, we finally caught up with the rain showers, perhaps they were just waiting for us – not sure. Either way, for the next 10 miles or so we had wet roads and b-b like rains pelting us from the left front. It was a real slog. There was very little chatter in the group and I stopped stopping for photos. Once we were all fairly wet, the rain slowed and eventually stopped. A little later the roads mostly dried out. Rather than abate, the wind continued to strengthen.

Seeing clouds sort of closing in around us, Curtis suggested we stop for a snack before we got drenched again. He was outvoted as it was only 9 miles to a rest stop and our hard right turn, where we would gain a tailwind. It was a good call as we arrived at the rest stop before the clouds closed completely around us. We were all a little shell-shocked at this point. Sure, we’re all ridden in the rain before but I think the bleakness of the landscape and how much ‘nothing’ was out there created a very ominous feeling. It was a great relief to take a break at the rest stop and even greater relief to have the wind at our backs as we left the stop.

It was only 23 miles from the rest stop to Edgemont, our home for the night. On this section we had strong tailwinds for part of the distance and strong side winds from the left for the rest. The side wind sections were not very fun but didn’t last long as every slight turn back to the right gave us the few degrees we needed to make side wind turn to tailwind. It tried to rain again but mostly we dodged the big showers. We stopped 13 miles out of Edgemont for photos at the South Dakota state line. We made it to our 5^th state. Wyoming made us work for the last miles but we still somehow escaped. And good news, the lovely wide Wyoming road shoulder continued onwards into South Dakota.

We arrived in town about noon and wandered a bit. We found the start of the George S. Mickelson Trail. Starting tomorrow, we’ll be on this trail for next 1.5 days as we work our way north. We tried to find a restaurant that was open. Google maps show a few number of restaurants but reality is that many of them are closed. Eventually we found the Victory Steakhouse and Lounge where we had lunch.

The Steakhouse is not fancy. And it’s not very well lit inside. By the time we arrived, the skies outside had brightened.  Inside the Steakhouse, right near the main door there was a table full of local men in cowboy hats. They gave us a right good looking over when we entered in our fluoro lycra cycling outfits. Naturally, the guys were harmless but it was a bit intimidating when they all stopped chatting and more or less stared at us as we entered one-by-one. I entered first and said hello – they responded in kind but I think I startled them. Every person coming in after us got a nice “howdy Fred, Bob, John, whatever”. I don’t think many cyclists visit the Steakhouse.

After eating we had to pick our hotel. There are two in town. Curtis had arranged two rooms at The Cowboy but we weren’t sure about it as when we passed it looked rough and a good number of permanent residents were sitting out in front of their rooms smoking. We tried the Travel Lodge next door first. They didn’t have the right rooms for us. And when I say Travel Lodge, don’t think your typical, fuzzy bear, Travel Lodge. The one here used to company housing for the Railroad, only to have been recently leased out to Travel Lodge – it is not close to fancy. We ended up at The Cowboy. We got two of the refurbished rooms. They are not fancy but seem fine for a night. At least their internet is fast and Nancy can attend her online Japanese class (I’m putting money on her being the only person in Edgemont who has an online Japanese class tonight).

For the next day and a half we will be riding the Mickelson Trail, a 109 mile trail that runs from Edgemont to Deadwood. We’ll be riding north up to Hill City and the cutting off towards Rapid City. Chris and Cindi rode the trail some 20 years ago so it’s been around for a while. Curtis was out wandering this arvo and met two grandparents with their 7 year son who just completed an out and back multi-day tour, taking on the entire trail. While traffic has been pretty light, we are looking forward to getting off the road for a few days.