(written by Dave)

We’d been warned about hills today but also told that the route was “tranquil”.  It was both.  We ended up stopping a little before our intended destination due to the hills.  The next section of road contains the biggest hill of this part of the coast and we are just not in hill shape yet, at least when we have to climb them on these very heavy bikes.  We figured that the last time we rode hills of any significance was over 5 months ago in northern Thailand.  As for the “tranquil”, in spite of us going 6kph on some of the uphills, what little traffic there was drove pretty cautiously, only passing when it was safe to do so.

We had some rain overnight and rain was forecast for today.  We had wet roads leaving the hotel and for much of the day, but no rain.  The traffic getting out of town was minimal – being Sunday AM really helped.  The first 25k or so was only slightly rolling.  There were lots of runners and a few small groups of bike riders, not as many riders as yesterday but the rolling to hilly terrain did not make for large bunches like yesterday did.

At 25k we hit the climb over San Margherita headlands.  This as a good 1000 foot climb with some real steep sections.  We spent a most of the hill in granny gears and had strip off some clothes to stay cool.  Most of the riders we saw today seemed to turn around at Camogli, now we know why.  Almost all of those who ventured up the hill managed to pass us, not surprising given our loads.  We received lots of ciaos, vamoss and bravos as we climbed.  The boys on carbon fiber were fast but had enough extra breath to encourage us.

The downhill off San Margherita was less steep.  This is always welcome as you hate to brake on the downhill when you work so hard to reach the top.  There was another 1000 foot bonus climb at Chiavari.  We had not heard about this one and given we started at sea level (after morning tea in Chiavari) we know we got our monies worth.  (I’m not sure that this new altimeter bike computer is such a good idea).  Eventually we made it down to Lavanga and mostly flat roads to Sestri Levante.

Here there were two options, a 2000 foot climb or ride a one-way flat road that is controlled by traffic lights and is over 15k long, including tunnels that are as long as 2.5ks.  Technically bicycles are not allowed as they can’t travel fast enough to finish the tunnels before the lights cycle.  As neither option sounded great to us after the hills we had already done we decided to stay here for the day – how’s that for being in the moment?

We found a reasonably priced pension (Albergo San Pietro) right in old-town.  We are over budget but need another good night’s sleep and there are no campgrounds around here.  The old-town area is quite attractive.  There are two harbor areas, one on each side of the peninsula.  We went out for dinner early to snap some sunset shots and take in the vibe.  There are lots of folks out doing the same.  For dinner we found a great Italian pasta/seafood restaurant where we had fresh samples of both.  Good thing we rode those hills today.

This town seems to be a bit of a tourist destination and is a nice spot.  It is very picturesque – many of the buildings along this coast are covered with painted stucco, with lots of detail around the windows and doors to make it look like real architectural styling.  Many times the windows are actually painted on, usually with shutters, particularly when the building is right next to the roadway.  Today we even saw one window painted on with curtains and a cat sitting in the window – you often have to look twice before you realise that it is not real but is painted on.

Tomorrow the forecast is 80% chance of rain so we are debating what to do.  We are planning on riding through the famous and scenic Cinque Terre region but don’t want to do so in the rain.  We may take the short tourist train in and back and look at some of the villages, spending another night here and then doing the climb the following day.  At least we have a rain day option.  If it looks ok in the morning, we may tackle that 2000 foot climb and make it part way into Cinque Terre.  We’ll just have to see how the weather looks tomorrow.

So, it’s an early night for us tonight as we are both bushed.

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